From Hill to Table: Restaurateur Jason Hammel ’90 on Creativity, Compassion, and Community

On a morning zoom call while being interviewed for this article, Jason Hammel  ’90—an award-winning executive chef, restaurateur, author, and nonprofit leader—sat before two large swinging doors at his renowned Chicago restaurant, Lula Cafe. As he spoke, fellow chefs, sous chefs, and other staff members moved in and out of view, preparing for the busy day ahead. Despite the bustling scene, Hammel remained calm and composed, smiling throughout the conversation.

 

A few weeks earlier, Hammel exhibited the same calm demeanor while delivering a heartfelt Assembly speech to the Hopkins community. Returning to his alma mater in October as the 2024 Fall Fellow, Hammel spoke not only as a celebrated chef and restaurateur, but also a Hopkins alum deeply influenced by his time on the Hill. Rather than focus solely on his professional accomplishments, he emphasized the importance of leading with kindness, regardless of one’s chosen path.

 

How does Hammel maintain his calm amid chaos? For him, the answer is simple: “Taking things one detail at a time.” During his speech, he illustrated how seemingly small decisions—such as choosing local ingredients or crafting a thoughtful menu—can make a meaningful impact.

 

Hammel credits this “small details” philosophy to his time on the Hill. “Hopkins taught me to think critically and approach everything with intention and care,” he said. “Those lessons are baked into everything I do—even the way I cook.”

 

The last time Hammel stood before a Hopkins Assembly, he was playing bass guitar in the school rock band
his senior year. Before his Assembly speech, student DJs Violet W. ’25 and Shreya R. ’25 played music from 1990, his graduation year, one of many factors that made Hammel feel right at home back at Hopkins.

 

“Returning felt like stepping into the house you grew up in—the walls are the same, but someone else lives there now. It was haunting and deeply nostalgic,” he said.

 

Hammel’s Hopkins tenure began long before his student days. When Hammel was four, his stepfather, James
Bucar—a former Hopkins faculty member—relocated their small family from Massachusetts to a home on
campus. Hammel’s childhood bedroom was on the top floor of Hopkins House, now home to the College
Counseling Department. He looks on that time fondly.

 

“I learned to ride a Big Wheel on the patio outside the library. I swung on ropes on a campus jungle gym.
Hopkins was the first home I knew,” said Hammel. 

 

During his speech, Hammel spoke of his enduring respect for his stepfather, calling Bucar an ‘all-time Hopkins G.O.A.T.’ (Greatest Of All Time). Indeed, Bucar was a revered and multi-talented member of the Hopkins faculty, serving as an English teacher, head of the English department, head adviser, varsity girls basketball coach, and even head of athletics for a time. Despite often having to tag along with his stepfather two hours before school started as he graded papers, or having to hear fellow students lament the difficulty of Bucar’s elective in Russian literature, Hammel deeply appreciates all Bucar did for him and the School.

 

“To say that I’m proud of him and of this upbringing doesn't begin to describe the gratitude that I have this morning. Hopkins isn’t just a school. To me, it's family history,” said Hammel.

 

Though he had visited Hopkins for alumni events before, writing his speech allowed Hammel to reflect deeply
on his formative years as a Hopkins student, where he navigated uncertainty and discovered his creative spark.

 

“Like everyone, I was awkward and unsure of myself,” Hammel admitted. “I wanted to be a creative person but was figuring out the best outlet for me.” 

 

Whether playing in bands or writing, he explored artistic avenues while learning how to be a student. While
Hammel initially found the academic rigor challenging, he hit his stride by junior year with the help of supportive peers and faculty. Hammel credited teachers like Heidi Dawidoff and John Roberts for stirring his curiosity and encouraging him to embrace his passions. Once his excitement for learning ignited, he became known for his quiet determination and thoughtful participation in discussions. 

 

“Hopkins sparked in me a desire to explore, to create, and to connect,” he said. “It gave me a foundation that has guided me ever since.”

 

Hammel connected his love of literature and story-telling—cultivated at Hopkins—to his life’s passions. “This was the first place that really pushed me to ask questions and seek meaning,” he said. “It’s also where I learned to believe in the power of ideas and creativity.”

 

Hammel also reflected on the parallels between the creative process of cooking and the intellectual rigor he encountered at Hopkins.

 

“Whether I’m writing a menu or crafting a dish, it’s about finding the balance between structure and spontaneity—something I first learned here on the Hill,” he shared. 

 

After Hopkins, Hammel attended Brown University, where he studied English. His path took a significant turn during a post-college trip to Italy, however, when he was captivated by the deep connection between food, culture, and community. In the markets and kitchens of Italy, Hammel found a new way to express himself—through cooking.

 

“It was in Italy that I realized food is more than just sustenance—it’s a way to connect with others and express yourself,” Hammel explained.

 

Returning to America with a fresh sense of purpose, Hammel began working in restaurants in Chicago. In 1999, he and his wife, Amalea Tshilds, opened Lula Cafe, a neighborhood eatery that has become a cornerstone of Chicago’s food scene. Known for its focus on seasonal ingredients and thoughtful preparation, Lula Cafe serves as a perfect embodiment of Hammel’s belief in food as a means of bringing people together. Before long, Hammel had become one of the original voices of the Farm to Table movement in Chicago and one of the first chefs to source local organic ingredients and build close relationships with Midwestern farmers. 

 

Hammel’s speech focused greatly on the importance of knowing and caring for people. One example he shared was the close relationships he has built with local farmers through his work at Lula Cafe.

 

“Getting to know farmers isn’t just a cliché for me,” he said. “When you’re connected to someone’s personal story, it changes how you treat their products. That care is reflected on the plate and in the entire dining experience.” The theme of hospitality also became a cornerstone of his talk. Hammel discussed the subtle but important ways he attempts to treat his customers. For instance, if someone asks where the bathroom is, Hammel’s staff members are trained not to point but to guide them with an open hand. “The open hand suggests that the person has the agency to move forward, making the gesture gentle and welcoming,” he explained.

 

It’s this level of detail that has made a clear difference in the competitive Chicago restaurant market. In typical Hopkins fashion, Hammel used Latin to solidify his point.

 

“The word hospitality is derived from the Latin hostis, which originally meant stranger or enemy. Talk about killing them with kindness,” he joked.

 

In 2024, Lula Cafe was honored with the James Beard Award for hospitality, which recognizes exceptional talent and achievement in the culinary arts, hospitality, media, and broader food system. 

 

Outside of Lula Cafe, Hammel serves as the Executive Chef at Marisol, located in Chicago’s Museum of
Contemporary Art. In 2010, he co-founded Pilot Light, a nonprofit that weaves food education into school curricula, helping children connect what’s on their plates to larger issues of health, sustainability, and culture. Hammel also recently put his love of literature to good use, as his debut book, The Lula Cafe Cookbook: Collected Recipes and Stories, was published in 2023. 

 

Hammel’s commitment to sustainability and equity defines much of his work, as he is a vocal advocate for ethical food systems.

 

Following his presentation, a brunch was held in Hammel’s honor that featured one of Lula Cafe’s famous dishes, baked feta and olives. Another renowned Lula Cafe dish—the chickpea and fennel tagine—was served during lunch hours alongside a sweet potato miso soup (see recipe on the next page). Following Assembly, Hammel attended classes, toured the campus, and engaged in extended conversations with students and faculty. 

 

“The kids were so open about what resonated with them,” he said. Despite the generational gap, he felt a deep
connection with them. “I tried to meet them where they are, and it was heartening to feel like an insider again.”